An island day begins with the timetable, but it is shaped by tide, freight and the people making the crossing.
We arrive early enough to watch the harbour work. If the sailing changes, the mainland alternative is already researched rather than improvised.
Treat the crossing as part of the place.
The boat is not dead time between attractions; it is where scale, weather and island dependence become visible.
The field journal records practical decisions so later departures inherit knowledge rather than a marketing script.
